We had been to Rann of Kutch, so salt flats were not something unique for us. However, the 3 day Uyuni tour looked exciting though, with pictures of red lagoons with flamingoes. We also read good reviews about Isla del Sol, the birthplace of Inca Sun God. The chance to cover the magnificent lake while crossing borders seemed exciting! At some point, we were also considering Jaguar spotting at Kaa Iya National Park, but we didn’t have enough time to pull off everything. We decided to leave out Kaa Iya National park to another day, potentially covering that from Brazil side. The jungle tours are expensive, and with Tambopata already in our itinerary, we wanted to test our Jaguar spotting luck there (we knew it was close to zero). So we finally shortlisted our places to visit in Bolivia including La Pax, Salar de Uyuni, 3 day tour including Laguna Colorada and Sol de Manana. If you have the time, include Sucre, Pampas/ Madidi National park for Amazon, Kaa Iya National Park for Jaguar spotting
Flight connections to Bolivia are not that great. It makes better sense to take a flight to Peru and then take the land border route into Bolivia. So, we knew that if we don’t make it to Bolivia this time, tough chance pulling off a solo Bolivia trip in future. The visa process was also not tourist friendly- we cover that separately in Visa section. There was no exemption for US Visa holders unlike neighboring countries like Chile and Peru. Visa on arrival which is available only at La Paz and Santa Cruz airport for Indians costed a lot (in addition to flight costs), making it less effective for a shorter tripLATAM and Bolivian Airlines are the only two prominent operators. LATAM flight timings were not convenient considering Uyuni trip, adding almost 2 days extra if we took that option. The Bolivian National Airline offers only non refundable tickets with few aggregators offering tickets. Their own website does not accept foreign cards. With so much complexity around flights, land border crossing was the only option left for us
With Bolivia visa not working out in India, we decided to try getting a visa from Peru. If that worked, we would go through Lake Titicaca into land border. If not, we had plan B of trying Visa on arrival at La Paz airport by taking a flight from Cusco, and Plan C where we would skip Bolivia entirely and go to Chile for 5 days covering lagoons and deserts there
Plan A did work and we got a chance to visit this wonderful country!
Best time to visit
Dry season from May- October is generally better given the harsh cold nights. If you are too keen on getting reflection photos at Salar, December to April time is good with a layer of water
Getting In
Land border is the most common way to enter. We went with Peru Hop crossing the border at Kasani from Peru to Bolivia. La Paz airport is well connected to major capitals- the second-best alternate for tourists
We just took the route to get back to Lima after 3 day Uyuni tour through Chile, since the flights were cheaper, had a refundable option and could avoid another night bus journey back to La Paz. LATAM airline is any day better than Bolivian National Airline. We heard Day 3 of Uyuni tour is repetitive to Day 1, tracing way back and not missing much. It also gave us a day in Lima to visit the city
The alternate option of taking a bus to La Paz and flight back to Lima through Bolivian National Airline was extremely expensive. BOA does not have a good reputation either- with tough to book process, limited digital ways to modify bookings, no refunds, lost baggage, delays and potentially everything that can go wrong. The Latam flight option from La Paz to Lima is not available all days of the week and it flies around 5 AM before the bus reaches La Paz, wasting a day to wait again to catch the flight
Visa
Indians fall in Group for Bolivia visa. You can check out your group and visa requirements on Bolivia Hop site
For Indians applying in India, you have to create an application at this site and them send a mail to the Delhi consulate asking for an appointment consul.bolivia.in@gmail.com.
Unfortunately there is no website to understand more about the documentation. The phone number given (011 4606 0934) is also not always received by the other end, so it is very difficult to get through. We had filled the form, submitted additional documents on mail and got an appointment. However, they informed us a week before that our appointment has been moved to next month without a fixed date. We were extremely frustrated by the process and response. Please note that an in-person visit is mandatory, so you can no longer rely on an agent. In addition, one way change of appointment dates after we had planned our trip to Delhi was purely unprofessional. The cost of making another Delhi trip was higher than getting a Visa on Arrival at La Paz airport, so we dropped the idea of getting a visa from India
The list of documents is also quite painful. These are required for application on the site online
- 2×2 Inch passport photo
- Itinerary
- Passport copy with 6 month validity
- Yellow fever certificate. We have heard mixed views here that it is required only if you are visiting Amazon region. We anyway had one from our previous visit to Kenya
- Bank statement stamped by the bank
- Invite letter (if you are visiting someone)
- Accommodation confirmation
After applying online here(https://visas.cancilleria.gob.bo/#/), you need to send the following documents on mail
- Passport size photo with red background
- Original Police clearance certificate. Only the ones issued by Passport Authorities is accepted now. Local police certificates are not valid.
- Flight bookings
The Police clearance certificate application process is similar to applying for a passport. You can apply at Passport Seva website and select PCC. Please note that you cannot select an appointment date. It allocates the next available date automatically which is typically the next working day. We lost INR 500 once since this is not clear in the application process and we couldn’t make it to the passport office the next day. It took about 2 weeks to get the PCC. You get 2 physical copies delivered to home address.
You will need a copy of Aadhaar with your date of birth visible and both sides photocopied. Download the latest Aadhaar copy from official website since old ones might not have date of birth mentioned. My parents could finish the formalities in 30 minutes since they got early appointment in the day, while mine took almost half a day. You will have to submit biometrics at the centre. We had to visit local police station twice post application submission to get the forms and submit verification documents from neighbors
We had heard PCC is not required if applying from Peru, but didn’t want to take a chance, so got them done in any case. We were not asked for it
Applying for Bolivian visa from Cusco
This turned out to be a much better option for us. The application link remains similar. You need to fill up the form and submit supporting documents- Passport copy, Itinerary, Bank statement, Accommodation proof, Yellow fever certificate of visiting Amazonian forests
We submitted hard copies of the documents above and paid visa fee of 200 soles per person ($50 USD). Please note that visa fees seem to have increased for group 2 countries. We had also heard that some of the applicants were required to pay the fee online even before submitting the application, but that was not the case for us. The consulate did not provide an option to pay in USD or submit the fee at the BCP bank branch. We did not push too much as we were ok paying in soles.
We submitted documents at 9 AM and were asked to collect them back by 12:30 PM the same day. The visa was a sticker on the passport with 30 day validity.
The border crossing process was another headache. Although we took the Peru Hop bus where you have a guide to assist you, we had some process to follow. We realized that copies of almost all supporting documents are required even at the border once again including
- Copy of visa
- Accommodation for 1st day. The names of all travelers need to be mentioned, however this was not checked for us. If you use booking.com or Airbnb, there is an option to add all names into the booking
- Return ticket. We did not have this and decided to share tour itinerary and flight from Calama to Lima. They were accepted without any checks
- Bank statement
There is an option to print these at the border where you are obviously charged a bomb. We spent $20 just for prints. You need a set for each person although the documents might be same. They were just taken without too many checks. One of them checked the name on bank statement for some of us. They need all 4 documents though. You can try your luck skipping some pages to cut cost e.g., I gave 3 month statement instead of 6 months, probably one month was also sufficient
You need to submit custom declaration form while entering and leaving the border. That queue was longer than passport stamping queue, since locals come in for vehicle clearance
We were also told about a 15 BOL exit fee, but we were not asked for it while moving into Chile
Visa on Arrival
The process and documentation remain like applying from Cusco. The fee is higher- anywhere between $95-$160 depending on the mood of the officer if what we heard. There are no government websites that clearly lay out fees for different countries. In addition, small problems in documentation (e.g., names of all travelers not mentioned in hotel booking) are known to increase fees, an indirect bribe
Currency
The money exchanges at Bolivia offer rates much higher than official one given the currency crisis there. While official rate is pegged to about 7 BOL per USD, we managed to get 13 BOL per USD at Cambias around Witches market. Make sure you ask around at multiple places, since some of the exchange places are just shops that offer lower rates
You can use this link to check the ongoing blue dollar rates
Getting around
We used different modes of transport to get around. Sharing some of them here
- Peru Hop– Bolivia Hop bus from Cusco to La Paz with stops at Puno and Copacabana. You have to change the bus at the border
- Todo Turismo from La Paz to Uyuni. A tad expensive, but it had a heater, meals and flat seats (cama, 180 degrees). Given remoteness, we liked having meals included. You can consider this like a flight expense. Booking on official site gives you option to choose seats. The top floor is also
- Shared taxis for local travel in the city since my phone internet did not work making Uber ineffective. La Paz Teleferico is another alternate, but it was difficult to find stations without internet
- 3 day Uyuni tour with Salty Desert Aventures. They had published rates on websites along with the breakup, which seemed fair, unlike others where you must individually ask for a quote and negotiate. Andes salt expeditions, Red planet are other alternates
Check with locals if there is any closure of roads for cars. Vehicles were not allowed on the day of election, a day prior and we heard even on some public holidays. These can disrupt your plan. This site captures protest related blockades
For bus booking Tickets Bolivia and Bus Bud are aggregators to discover and compare buses
Places to visit in Bolivia- La Paz, 3 day Uyuni tour
La Paz
One of the highest altitude capitals in the world. You can take cable cars to go around the city. Sopocachi is one of the safer areas to stay in the city. We stayed near Witches market so that we could get currency even for the first cab ride
You can take a red cap walking tour at $3 to cover main spots in the city like Rodriguez market, Witches market, San Pedro prison, San Fransisco Church, Plaza Murillo. It was earlier tips only, but now takes the smallest possible fee
Valle de Luna / Valley of the Moon and Valle de Animas/ Valley of the Soul are 45 minutes away. We intended to visit both, but ultimately got time to visit only one of them. We prioritized Valle das las Animas because the photos looked better, crowds seemed lower and we could potentially visit a similar named place in Chile where there is another Valley de Luna
Valle de las animas
We took a Uber while going. There are many entry points to start a trail, we took the one where Yango had a drop off point. We are still not sure if there is a better starting point, but nevertheless the scenery was so good that we didn’t think too much
Beware of the altitude! Even a few steps make you feel tired. We hiked for 90 minutes covering only a short distance and never got to the famous view-point where one can see the entire stretch. We had heard about a 5 BOB local community fee, but there was no one to collect it from us, so the entrance was most likely not the commonly used one
After every turn, we could see more cliffs along with another turning point! After 90 minutes, we decided to make our way back. If you walk for 10-15 minutes towards town side, you can get collectivos to San Pedro and many other downtown areas. They costed 7 BOB for 3 people, please don’t ask us the logic. The distance travelled didn’t seem to make any difference, since another collective from San Pedro to cemetery also costed 7 BOB for 3 people. We wanted to take the collectivo to cemetery directly but most were full or didn’t stop for us
Cemetry
Bolivian cemeteries are known to be unique and colorful. Unfortunately, the cemetry was closed by the time we arrived post 4 PM. We could still catch a glimpse of some parts from the outsid
Teleferico
We wanted to take the teleferico near the cemetery to continue towards view points for sunset, but failed miserably due to lack of internet and poor Spanish skills. The station is located towards the back side of the cemetery which we couldn’t find despite some bit of walking and searching around! We were too tired to walk the whole way to figure out and decided to get back to hotel
Each ride costs 3 BOB and is a cheap way to experience the city. We had seen most of the city on or collectivo rides, so didn’t feel bad about missing the ride
Witches market
You can find weird stuff from llama fetus to dried frogs. Most tourists shop for fake Patagonia jackets and colorful souvenirs. A good place for currency exchange along the shops and cambias. Towards one end, the large square at Plaza Mayor de San Francisco is a good hangout place
What we skipped
Valle de Luna: Similar to Valle de Animas, but with slightly different landscape. Has an entry fee
Laguna Charquini: High altitude glacial lake only an hour away
Mountains near Chaltacaya: For half day to full day treks, typically combined with Valle de Luna
Cholita wresting: Typically held on Sundays and Thursdays in El Alto, close to airport. This involved women wrestlers dressed in Bolivian attire showing their skills
Salar de Uyuni
Largest white salt flat spanning 10k sq km, much larger than Rann of Kutch, famous for its mirror effect photos in rainy season. We went during the dry season on a 3 day tour that covered colorful lagoons and geysers in addition to the salt flats
Have sun glasses while at Uyuni. The salt flats are extremely reflective, making you almost blind without them. We made a mistake of underestimating the glare
Day 1
Train cemetery
Uyuni used to be involved in mining decades ago. The trains used to transport the minerals have been abandoned as mining declined due to lack of water and other shifts. People become kids here, climbing all over the trains for pictures
Dakar monument
The world famous Dakar rally used to pass through Salar. There is a monument for its remembrance. Usually a place to have lunch for most of the groups
Isla Inchahuasi
Filled with giant cacti, this island provides 360 degree views of the Salar. The size of cactus cannot be captured in pictures, you need to be there to experience it. The characteristic woody cactus is used to make everything from doors to baskets like any other wood. We really liked this island!
Day 2
Mount Ollague
A semi active volcano, with a fumarole on the left that spews continuously
Laguna Canapa
Our first view of flamingoes came here. A nice, peaceful lake, where you can witness these magnificent birds up close
Laguna Hedionda
A large lagoon with more flamingoes, doubling as lunch place. The water is slightly yellowish here thanks to sulphur. The glass walled restaurant makes it a nice place to watch the scenery
Laguna Colorada
The highlight of the tour – largest red lake. You can spot flamingoes and vicunas in the waters. Entry fee is the steepest for this reserve at 150 BOB per person, but worth it
Day 3
Sol de Manana
You witness fumaroles at 5 AM. The light from sunrise is known to be the best time to witness the magnificence of this place. You can place your hands on one of the artificial pipes that blow out steam, and walk around to see bubbling mud pools in a large area
Laguna Blanca and Verde
White and green lagoon were both almost frozen when we went. The green color is visible only late afternoon and evenings, while most tourist groups visit them in the morning. A nice stop nevertheless
Hot springs
Place to take a nice dip in hot water amidst the cold weather! 15 BOB entry per person
Logistics
You are encouraged to pack light and leave most luggage in Uyuni in case you plan to get back to Uyuni. If you are going to Chile, you pack the entire luggage and tie on top of 4x4s and carry them everyday
You stay in salt hotel on day 1 with private room and hot showers. Lunch is typically carried on the vehicle and served in the location. Dinner was best with soup in addition to main course. The infrastructure is limited, with shared dorms to stay on day 2 unless you pay extra for private room. We opted for a private room that was less cold, had hot showers, many blankets. We also rented sleeping bags to be on safer side. The landscapes make up for the pain and remoteness!
What to pack for Bolivia
We cover that separately here
Things to know
- Bolivia has much more beyond salt flats. Take a 3 day tour to witness high altitude colorful lagoons, geysers, deserts and outer worldly landscapes
- La Paz has cable cars working as inter-city public transport called Teleferico!
- Valle de Luna and Animas are about 45 minutes away from La Paz. The moon rocks are similar to ones in San Pedro in Chile, but in a city atmosphere. Head out beyond the city centre
- Get USD to exchange currency in Bolivia to get better than official rates at Cambios
- Booking tours on spot is known to be cheaper. You can try if you are not travelling in peak season
- Rent a sleeping bag during 3 day Uyuni tour to avoid extreme cold. Upgrade to private room option which have cleaner bathrooms, hot showers and warmer than shared rooms
- Check with locals if there is any closure of roads for cars. Vehicles were not allowed on the day of election, a day prior and we heard even on some public holidays.
Where we stayed
- La Paz: Hotel Sagarnaga – Cozy place in central area, close to Witches market. Had good hot showers after a long time for us at Cusco
- Salt hotel without a name, somewhere in San Juan. The exterior looked shabby, but interior was really nice
- Hostal San Bernado at Laguna Colorada in Huayllajara village
How much does it cost
We spent $3600 per person (INR 3.2 lac) overall for Peru-Bolivia-Chile across 17 days, with only the Bolivia leg costing $300
- Uyuni 3 day tour including entry fee, sleeping bag and private room: $150
- Peru Hop bus from Cusco to Bolivia: $60
- Visa: $50
- Hotel $20 as the room in La Pax costed $60 across 3 people
- Local transport $10
Other common expenses with Peru
- Flights: $2300. Emirates from Mumbai to Lima return
- Insurance: $25